Easter Break Part 1

Woah! Where did all the time go? We haven’t had Internet in out flat since the beginning of April and still currently don’t…hopefully it will be remedied shortly! There’s so much to tell, I’m quite excited! I get to relive all my adventures! Thankfully I wrote some of them down, but this will also be a test of memory. I kept saying, “Either spend tonight writing down memories or make new ones!” Clearly you know which choice I picked. The only drawback is that if one keeps doing that for too long one starts forgetting. So we’ll see what happens. Some things will be forgotten, that’s part of life. Here we go…you ready? This is gonna be a long one (/possibly way more than one).

CATCHING UP

Saturday found me going around town to every store that I might need supplies from while they were open, including the grocery stores, which also close. Seriously everything was closed Friday and Sunday. The public library, unlike Uni’s library, was open on Saturday and I spent some time obtaining sources on news media’s portrayal of crime, my topic for my paper. Eventually I returned to try to work out my paperness…not to any real result but some words down! 500ish or so, out of the required 2,000.

Sunday Sunday Sunday, the day before my trip, found me getting some couch-surfing details worked out (will explain later). I started packing for my journey down south and laid out my supplies on my floor to look at what I had. Not much that’s for sure. Towards the evening I made some pancakes while Briar made her amazing vegan chocolate cake! So moist/sweet/chocolate/ahhhhhh. Why the baking? We were headed to Hannah’s flat to have an Easter Potluck as it was Easter (and also my Dad’s birthday…but I had no skype to call ☹). It was an amazing potluck with heaps of food and good people. Not gonna lie, it was sorta the glimpse into the future of planning out holiday celebrations. It was wicked fun and Hannah is a fantastic organizer/cook and of course, made what seemed like enough food even if no one had brought anything. It was a really special night. I left to go pack and eventually I was ready. Ready for what?

Easter Vacation – Journey of a Lifetime

For my trip I kept a journal to better remember all the details/people. It’s not perfect, but it will hopefully help me better explain my South Island Adventure:

Sunday, April 4th, Dad’s Bday

Tomorrow’s the bid day. Didn’t get much on paper, but I feel ready. My pack is so heavy. 20kgs? Maybe more? Maybe less? No scale (nor an understanding of Kgs). I’m so excited and nervous and just plain ready. Up tomorrow at 6:00 for ferry and it’s on…now it’s 12:17 of Monday…sleep time.

Monday, April 5, Couch Surfing

6:00am! So early! Hannah called right after I turned off my alarm to make I was up. After stumbling ‘round I put my heavy-as pack on and walked to the train station. We were an hour early but so be it (we’d discussed the cryptic language of the website the night before and decided to error on the side of caution). The shuttle picked us up and took us to the Interislander, a huge ferry boat. We checked our bags (a la airport style, though I supposed the port came before the airport…). I had on my sea-sickness bands and my positivity on full-blast. The voyage was calm out of the harbor, but boy does the open sea swell! However, I didn’t feel queasy, just uneasy. Success! After two hours, the ferry started making it’s way down a large sound of the South Island to Picton; another hour later we were in Picton. Tiny place. Anna, Hannah, Alison, Elana, Becky, and I headed to Subway (as did everyone from the ferry!). Becky & Elana (two IFSA kids) were headed on a bus tour of the South Island while Anna, Hannah, and Alison were headed to a rent-a-car to start their South Island road trip. They headed out so Becky, Elana, and I headed to a nearby park on the water where we found a kiddie-train ride. Guess who road it? Elana and me, 20 cents each. The driver, er, conductor and perhaps his wife, the stationmaster, welcomed us with open arms. Great ride! Afterwards we took some pics of jellyfish in the water, Picton, and its palm trees. I left Becky and Elana to go wait for my ride at Subway.

Oh right, forgot to mention…I’m not going with anyone. My parents and friends would perhaps be concerned, so I decided to hold back my full plans until I was back in Wellington safe and sound. This is something I need to do. It’s sort of a test for myself I guess. Probably a bad time to mention that I just finished reading into the wild ☺. Yes, I’m nervous but so far it’s great…

Reflection on the trip 1 (composed at time of blog entry, not from journal)
I was thrilled to take this trip. After speaking with a kid taking a year off from Darmouth, at a backpacker’s up in National Park after the Tongariro crossing, who spoke highly of hitching, the plan was set into motion. It started gnawing at my brain every week and the gnawing became a conscious thought which slowly became an idealistic thought, which became a serious thought which became a plan! I would hitch the New Zealand’s south island by myself for a week minimum (though I always had the intention of doing the whole two weeks). I would couch surf if possible and see the world through the people I encountered. I’m grinning while writing weeks after. I’m very proud of myself for sticking to this plan and getting the coolest look at New Zealand.

(Continued) My ride came, Keri and her husband, Jason. A very nice couple who were to drive me from Picton to the Marlbourough Sounds, where I would be couch surfing with Jill and her partner Karena. Keri was very welcoming. Jason and her are Maori as is Karena. We stopped in Blenhiem to pick up their dog, as they’d been up at a wedding on the North Island and left their dog with a friend and their kids with Keri’s mums. The dog licked the entire back car window until it was a sloppy mess. We stopped in a small town to get the supplies Jill and Karena asked for: tea bags. I had previously purchased lettuce and bread for dinner. I ran into Leslie (IFSA) and her mother in the small shop. Crazy, right? The drive was beautiful as we drove around sounds and hills. We finally arrived at Jill and Karena’s, an elderly couple that was exhausted after watching the grandkids for Easter. Three grandkids greeted me with warm smiles. Keri and Jason wrangled up their kids and headed off leaving me with Jill and Karena. They live in a beautiful house on a sound, with a bit of beach and a boat. Jill took me down to the water in their gumboots to walk around for a bit. Afterwards I carried up some cut wood up to the woodshed. They fixed me a wonderful dinner, and even cooked me some chicken, though they are vegetarian. In their lovely home is a piano, which they were nice enough to let me play. I surprised them with my playing and they were quite appreciative. Jill and Karena were both undergrad psychology majors! Jill is still practicing as a therapist at 71! Karena has the neat hobby of polishing driftwood and pounamu. Pounamu or green stone or nephrite jade is sacred to the Maori. It is carved into shapes that all have meaning and cannot be purchased for oneself. Pounamu must be given! In fact, it must be worn around the neck of the buyer (maker) to absorb the wearer’s mana (essence/soul/power). Then the giver (buyer) gives the necklace to the receiver and the mana of the giver reacts with the receiver. It seems to bind people together, and is often given in New Zealand for graduation from parents or other such important occasions. Obviously I want one, but refuse to have someone else buy me one with my card. I just hope that I’m lucky enough to “earn it.” That seems to be the proper way to obtain pounamu. Karena showed me her work with such pride. Her pride was justified! Her work is beautiful. She prefers the lighter green shade, though most people and retailers prefer the darker hues. Jill, tired from the grandkids, went to bed early. I’m pretty sleep as well (and actually a bit under the weather). Jill and Karena are wonderful. Their love for eachother makes me happy…it’s so genuine and honest. They are so kind-hearted to open up their house to me, a total stranger.

To explain: Couch surfing is a system started in San Francisco whereby people share their spare couches/beds with strangers. It has a great reputation, you should check it out! Just google it! The network promotes the sharing of self in order to teach and learn from others. People leave reviews after they host or surf and if you have a negative review, it gets flagged and the couch surfer administrators contact the people involved to investigate.

Karena and I had a great conversation about being Maori and homosexual in Kiwiland. I look forward to talking will Jill tomorrow, who has offered to drive me to Blenheim. So far this trip is everything I wanted. Ah! So happy and content here. It might be sad to leave these two. I’ll have to get their address and a picture of the two.

Oh, and Karena said “when you give something you shouldn’t expect something in return.” It just stuck with me.

Tomorrow, I will attempt to hitchhike and if all goes well I’ll journal again!

Tuesday, April 6th, HH Kaikoura (g. crayfish)

So after a wonderful rest, I awoke, showered and made some breakfast with the help of Jill and Karena. We had to rush off though, as Jill had to be at work by 10:00. She was nice enough to drive me to the outskirts of Blenheim. On the way we chatted psychology and discussed, of all things, the DSM-V. She apologized for not being able to drive me through Blenheim and dropped me off on the outskirts of the wrong side for my travels. I was thankful she took me this far and said so. From where she dropped me, I walked with that darn heavy pack to the town center. Once there, I asked for direction on how to get to the road towards Kaikoura. I passed a guy placing cardboard in the rubbish behind a store and asked for a piece. He kindly obliged and wished me luck on my travels. I stopped in a Warehouse, NZ’s Walmart (though without the bad connotations), and borrowed a marker to write “Kaikoura?” on my piece o’ cardboard. From there, I stopped to use a restroom in McDonald’s and finally walked out of Blenheim. I made it to the sign that proclaimed 123 km (or so) to Kaikoura. Kaikoura = kai + koura = good + crayfish (I think). From that spot, I caught my first ride via hitching!

Reflection on the Trip 2
Couch surfing with Jill and Karena took me in a direction that was out of the way from my first destination of Kaikoura. They responded to my request to surf in their guestroom (some couch, huh?) only a few days before I was headed out. I decided, since I was on my own and could easily do so, to spend the first night with them instead of getting a lift with Hannah and crew towards Kaikoura. It was an excellent decision that brought me grinning ear to ear. Honestly, there is nothing like being cared for by two grandmothers! They cooed and ooed over my piano playing and possessed such wisdom when they spoke. I highly recommend couch surfing to everyone and fully intend on opening up my home, when I own a place of my own, to surfers. Hosting is definitely a way to spice of one’s life in the comfort of one’s own home.

(Continued) Ken, a high school (or college, as the kiwis say) teacher, stopped his car and let me in. He was headed to Kaikoura for a break before returning to his students. He’s working on a degree on tourism as he and his wife are thinking of switching their lives around. He’s hitched in the US before and seems well traveled. We discussed politics (mostly US), the US, NZ’s “claim” to being green (which he had a lot to say about), and much more on our hour and half or so drive. He was nice enough to pull over so I could quickly snap some photos of a seal colony! The drive was spectacular. From the flats of Bleheim, we pushed through the hills to the coast, where I caught some glimpses and photos of mountains; much cloud cover impeded the view. He dropped me off at the visitor center in town just after we had discussed some Kiwi music; he was impressed that I’d seen Minuit. He headed back, as he’d passed where he was going to drive me further. I snapped a photo of him and his car, a trend I hope to continue. I thanked him, got direction to the YHA and walked for a few kilometers (maybe only one, hard to tell with that pack…).

Halfway through my walk, I stopped for lunch overlooking the ocean in the misty rain; the ocean smells so strong here. Karena and Jill has sent me away with a few pieces of buttered bread, a tomato, a huge apple, and two hard-boiled eggs. Not a huge fan of eggs nor fresh tomato, but the gesture was too nice and the stomach too hungry to care much. I got a room at the YHA with my free night that came with my $40 membership. I then used my 20mins of free internet (also from the membership) to register for my last fall semester at Vassar. I have already purchased two more hours for future use for class follow-up and other couch surfing opportunities. I wasn’t feeling my best, so I took a nap followed by a rainy walk. Afterwards I found some people watching Spiderman and wrote some of this while watching. I went upstairs after the movie and talked with a German about his epic trip so far. He gave me even more desire to go to Milford Sound. I hoped to talk with him after dinner, but got sidetracked.

Dinner consisted of one cup of uncooked rice and one can of beans. Once all cooked, it was a bit of food, but nothing I couldn’t handle. During my cooking, an older British woman let me have a bag of tea. After her kind gesture, she noticed her dinner package did not include the pictured rice. So naturally, I have her a ½ cup of so of mine; oddly enough she didn’t want as much rice as me! She also provided some milk and sugar after I invited her to join me for dinner. Patty, her name, was on holiday in New Zealand. We chatted throughout dinner. She offered me more tea and cards. We played an English game that has eerily similarly rules to a game I’d played before. I taught her war, good for a few laughs, and then crazy-eights—Uno-style. She loved it! Patty provided peanut butter and jam on rice cakes for dessert. We shared stories with each other and it was a great evening, well spent. Still feeling a bit dodgy though. I went to bed shortly afterwards. The German was nice enough to turn on the lights as I crawled into bed.

Wednesday, April 7th; Mt. Fyffee/$50 Bar Tab

I awoke after not the best sleep, but felt a bit better. The fog/clouds had lifted to reveal Kaikoura’s peaks. I was amazed at the view from the YHA of the snow-topped peaks. Although it was late (9:00), I decided to pay the thirty-five dollars (NZ) to taxi to the base of Mt. Fyffe, which looked glorious now that I could see it. I checked the weather and all seemed good. The driver picked me up at the YHA and drove me to the base, 12km or so out of town. I saw two cars in the lot and hope that perhaps I could get a ride from them after. I started hiking and minutes in (5 mins to be precise) I shortly realized that my pack, my beloved pack, was not only heavy but…HEAVY AS. The straps attacked my collarbone and hips. I adjusted, repacked, and tied my spare socks to the chest strap to lessen the pressure on my collar bone (an idea from my dear Aunt Carol…THANKS!). Thirty minute later, I felt a slight pain on my right heel. Fifteen minutes later or so, the pain was a throb, but with no one to complain to, I tried to ignore it. Eventually, I de-laced, de-shoed, de-gaitered, and placed a plaster (band aid) on the spot where a blister was quickly forming. I used to tape as well, but to no avail. However, as I’d now physically attempted to solve the problem, my brain worried less and instead focused on the stunning views of snow capped mountains. Though the view started to disappear as the beautiful white puffy clouds were replaced with dark storm clouds. Then, as it often does when storm clouds are above you, it rained! I had the proper gear, my nice water resistant gaiters and waterproof coat, but it grew colder the higher I climbed. If I stopped to catch my breath, the cold would creep in. And boy, did I need to catch my breath. The hike, which follows a small gravel road, just climbs for the whole ascent at the worst kind of angle; not too steep, not too flat, just that moderately steep angle that tires out the legs. I had failed at packing lunch food such as sandwiches. I had one square meals for breakfast and plenty of pasta/rice for dinner, but no lunch food. I improvised with some snack bars (full of protein and calories) and scroggin (NZ trail mix). I stopped for some more “food” and afterward, finally found the hut. It was 12:30, I had no way down, and still a ways to go. Visibility was nil and I seriously decided not finishing as I was climbing for the 360-degree views, which seemed unlikely to see on a day like this. The temptation of solo-climbing my first peak, and my first snow-caped peak, was too much to pass up. I left my bag in the hut after speaking with two Americans and a German who were inside. Nikki, one of the Americans, gave me her number in case I needed help at the bottom. With this safety net, my pack off my shoulders, and a quick change into alpine gear (waterproof pants/polypro) I started the final ascent at 12:50. By 1:20 I was not sure if this was still a good idea as the rain was back, but this time as snow! I only had two bars and a bit of water, but I was determined. I trudged onward and eventually into 2-4 inches of snow complete with a snow storm. The ridge narrowed to 2-3 meters, with steep snowy drops on either side…I think, visibility was only a couple meters. I continued onward through the winter wonderland and made it to the summit by 1:50 with is spectacular 360-degree views of…NOTHING! Nikki and her boyfriend/husband/companion’s snowman had fallen in the wind so I left a snow angle on top. 1600 meters and although there were no views, the sense of accomplishment I felt at climbing by myself and encouraging myself was worth it. I expressed such feeling by yelling into the winds! The descent was easier, especially as my heel doesn’t hit my shoe as I descend. The clouds starting lifting slowly, but I still had no shadow. I finished my water bottle and refilled it with fresh snow, just in case I needed more water later. When I got to the hut, I could see more of the other mountains. I changed my gear, decided not to cook any food, but eat scroggin and continue as it was almost three. The descent, even with pack, was fast and I was down by 4:30 or so, after stopping to take in a gorgeous rainbow. I completed the hike successfully, but still had no way home (nor a home to get to, haha).

I texted Niki…no response. So I kept walking towards town. After a couple kilometers, I came to a horse/sheep farm, saw some activity, and after a ten-minute bout of indecision, knocked on the door. A middle-aged man opened the door, before he got there his dog and I were bonding. I asked, “Is there any chance in hell you’d be willing to give me a lift to town?” Ohhh oh oh…maybe not the right house. I told him I foolishly went tramping without a plan on how to get back. As I thought, he readily agreed that I was foolish. As soon as he opened the door, I had a feeling the only way to get a ride from him was point out how stupid I was for getting into this situation. After telling me there was probably no chance he’d give me a life…he did! I forget his name (didn’t journal that night and forgot it). He lectured me most of the way to town on proper gear and safety, but I did manage to get some good stories out of him and maybe, just maybe, a smile! He took me to the first backpackers eh found and I thanked him and went inside. Many foreign women were standing wet clad in only towels waiting for the receptionist to return so they could get into their room. When she returned and had handled the girls, she informed me they were full.

I kept walking and found the Lazy Shag, which had a room for 23, 20 for BHP Members, perhaps my YHA membership was a mistake…I dropped my stuff in my room and sadly discovered my blister wound. Think I’ll spare you the details on that. I went to the kitchen and made some rice and beans. Some people commented on my diner choice, friendly comments full of distain and remembrance for when they ate rice and beans. I went outside on the deck and Simon, a nice Irish fella with a nicer brogue, joined me. He’s been in New Zealand almost a year and plans to head home soon. An electrician by trade, he worked on a farm in Kaikoura while playing rugby. We chatted, discussed his life and a bit of mine, mostly my psychology major. Two English girls, Polly and Fran, joined us. The first thing we heard from Polly was, “It’s like a stir-fry sauna in there!” in response to her glasses fogging up as she walked into the kitchen from the deck. Fran has worked for Harris Bank, but was laid off and using her compensation money to travel. Polly was hoping to end up working in Australia. Brir (said “Breer”), an Irish woman with a beautiful brogue, joined us for a bit. She was headed to Christchurch, so I hinted that I might like a ride. She picked up on my hint and accepted! I had intended on going to Hamner Springs on the way towards Arthur’s Pass, but how could I pass up this opportunity. She headed inside. I was exhausted, so I took that much needed shower and went to bed. FALSE! I joined Simon, Polly, and Fran and we headed to the Irish Bar in town. It was quiz night so we signed up with the name “Quiz on my…”; Polly’s idea. My teammates were 26-28 years old with me, the young Uni kid. I got my first ever pint and it was cider and excellent. The three offered to buy me drinks all night, which I refused though I did accept Fran’s food offer of wedges! We did quite well in the first round: movies/TVs, not as well on the human body. We dominated science though didn’t do well on the sex category. Music was our double points round and we got nine out of ten questions right giving us eighteen points. We did okay on the final round of general knowledge. But guess what? After not placing during the rest of the game, we ended up winning by six points! The prize? A $50 dollar bar tab! We celebrated by drinking it in the form of pitchers full of crazy-sweet-alcoholic-strange-colored-liquid that tasted better all mixed up with the other pitchers. I still can’t believe we won. Sooo good. Afterwards the cold air felt quite warm as we headed back to our rooms to sleep…er…pass out.

Thursday, April 8; Kaikoura to Arthur’s Pass

I woke up a lil’ groggy with a minor headache, but nothing too bad. Brir’s, who was bottom bunk, offer to drive me to Christchurch was still valid so I took her up on it. She shared some tea (I think everyone jut pity’s me…must look hungry). We drove out of town, after I took some pictures of town, after I took some pictures of Mt. Fyffe with NO CLOUDS!!! Ahh picked the wrong day, oh well…never climbed in a snowstorm before but now I have. We picked up Marianne, a French girl headed to Christchurch and then on to France. Brir and Marianne had met the day before while swimming with dolphins. I got to pick the music as shotgun requires and was finally getting use to riding in the left side of the car. The drive was gorgeous (duh, it’s New Zealand). Brir and I sang loudly to some tunes. “Marianne’s a Bitch” by Regina Spektor came on much to Marianne’s surprise. We made it to Christchurch around 12:30 and dropped Marianne off. I helped direct Brir to her backpackers for her stay and helped her find the car return. She had gotten the car with a ¾ tank and had to return it with at least that much. However, she overfilled it in Christchurch and was upset, as the rental company doesn’t pay for the extra gas. She also had two hours before it was due back. I was currently realizing how much of a pain it would be to hitch out of Christchurch, one of New Zealand’s biggest cities. I casually suggested we should go get food and offered Brir $10 to get out of town. We found a dodgy-local place to eat and got weird fried/battered food. Tried my first pineapple-cheese toastie…hmm not bad! Brir drove me to 73, my route out of town towards Arthur’s Pass, and drove me almost 35 kms out of Christchurch. She dropped me off in a small as town and turned around after giving me some cardboard.

I lathered on sunscreen, filled up my water bottles, and scribbled 73 on my sign. It was 2:00 and I had 130 kms to go; so about four more hours or so of daylight. It took longer to get a ride than in Blenheim, but Graham picked me up. He was hopefully heading hunting if his buddy called, but otherwise as going fishing. He took me to the next town where the main road splits. I left my “73” sign, kudos to Brir, in his truck, but realized I would not need it as it was only 73 until Arthur’s Pass anyway. I walked out of the small town (if you can call it a town) and after a bit of waiting (longest so far) a small black car a la knight rider stopped with a Maori woman behind the wheel. This was the first time I was picked up by a woman. I feel bad, as I’ve forgotten her name. She took me two towns farther (one out of her way) to Springfield, fully equipped with a pink Simpsons donut (made out of a large tire). I still had a ways to go and there are no towns between Springfield and Arthur’s Pass. I wasn’t really sure what would happen as there was little traffic. But it wasn’t even 4:00, so plenty of time left to hitch or rather fail at hitching and walk back to Springfield. After the longest wait yet, Christian picked me up; the 20-year-old from Chicago (Wheaton). He’s been in NZ for the past ten years with his family. His dad started a security company after his days working as secret service for Nixon and Ford. Christian was on holiday from the airport where he works on planes. He was headed past Arthur’s Pass, which meant I was going to make it before dark! We chatted up a storm. He even pulled over so I could snag come still pictures. Eventually he dropped me off at the visitor center in Arthur’s Pass.

He left, and I went inside to discover that camping was an easy option, as I’d read. There was a store in town; emphasis on “a”. I bought $20 in supplies including Timtams, which are biscuits famous for being delicious. Also bought a small packet of pasta sauce. I set up my tent…er…shelter, which consisted of a tarp on top, supported by a branch and tent pegs, as well as a tarp below (rain/dew-proof). I made dinner, pasta with my lil’ Kathmandu stove and it worked! It actually cooked quite fast. I covered the pasta with a can of tuna and pasta sauce; not bad. Christoph, a German and my camping neighbor, gave me three apples that he’d picked when Woofing. Guess I must have looked hopeless without a proper tent, but I happily accepted. He also had his eyes on Avalanche Peak and said I could stick my extra stuff in his car, though I’d already enquired with the DOC and they said I could leave my stuff their as well. The kea is around. The only alpine parrot in the world, it’s green with vivid bright colors on its wings. Keas are known for their vast intellect and their interest in stealing your things!!! They live above my “tent” and I’m a bit concerned. Around the campsite, I also met Gabriel from Denmark/Netherlands (I can’t remember which), who may also be climbing Avalanche Peak the following day. After dinner, I was immensely excited with myself for hitching and cooking outdoors. The feeling of being a little self-sufficient is grand. Though in all honesty, hitching is NOT self-sufficient at all. It depends on other people’s kindness; regardless I still feel great! Beginning to understand Chris McCandles more (aka Alex Supertramp…Into the Wild). The people I’ve met are very friendly. Gabriel offered me some coffee and I finally found time to journal. Also, the stars are spectacular…perhaps I need to cease writing and go outside. Though it’s very cold…hopefully I don’t freeze. Hehe I’m so excited.

Friday, April 9, 2010; Avalanche Peak + Derrek

As I write this, I’m warm in my down bag underneath a better shelter. I redesigned my tarp “tent”….it now has rocks weighing it down so the top tarp and the bottom tarp meet on all sides but one.

Today started out frigid! My toes/hand were red and I awoke at five chilly! I went back to bed and eventually warmed up enough to fall asleep. Round seven I emerged from my shelter. I ate my square meal and an orange. Next, I found some hot water from a bathroom near the train station. It burned on my cold hands but I was adamant about warming them up! I packed up my camp into my yellow waterproof pack liner and place only essential plus some extra clothing in my pack. I gave my pack liner to the DOC, filled out an intention form and hit the trail around nine. I was in full gear, minus rain protection, as it was so cold. There was frost outside my shelter. After less than thirty minutes, I was in sunshine and stripped off layer and layer. I wore a plaster plus 3 liners on my right foot for the blister’s sake (though apparently that’s worse as it increases the number of surfaces rubbing…). It felt a bit better, but still rubbed. Thankfully the trail was such that I could often step with it my right foot downward (so on a rock) which lessened the agitation greatly. The trail starts up steeper than Mt. Fyffe and has some rock scrambles—my favorite! After an hour the bush was replaces by grasses, making great views a constant. It was a blue-sky day with few clouds. I eventually made it to the top in time for my 12 o’clock lunch reservation (inside joke with the fam). To get to the top, one has to traverse a ridge that is less than a meter wide with steep slopes on either side. In windy/rainy conditions, people die here…or so I heard from numerous climbers. Thank goodness it was sunny and clear! On top, a kea greeted me. It tried to charm all of us hikers into lowering out guard so it could steel! Smart bird, that kea! I had to watch my back while eating my lunch as it was about a foot away. Though it’s closeness did make for some splendid pictures.

The descent was long as I was still sore from Fyffe. It was also long because I took the longer way down. Finally I found the bottom. The whole way down, I noticed a large waterfall across the valley. I arrived at the bottom around 2:00 and decided I had plenty of time until the DOC closed. I crossed two bridges and hiked the short way to Devil’s Punchbowl Falls (Te Tautea o Hinekahi). I “accidentally” walked off the path and got a closer view of the 160+ feet falls before realizing my “mistake.” I dipped my sweaty head into the cold mountain water. I returned to Arthur’s Pass village of 36 and wne into the Wobbly Kea, the town pub. I got a pint of Monteith’s Ale, very good, and a bag of salt and vinegar chips, even better. My mom always told me beer tastes better after being warm and working so I thought I’d give it a try. Gosh, she’s a wise woman! I went back to the DOC to get my back and found Derrek, Hannah + Anna’s American flatmate, inside! He was traveling solo as well on a long hike and was meeting people in Arthur’s Pass. He pitched his tent while I repitched “mine.” He headed to the falls and I stayed for a much needed shower. $2 for 6 mins of hot water? Alright! Enough time to wash and wash out that nasty blister…er…wound now. The hike was not kind to my heel; I think I’d better not hike for a few days. Derrek returned and we cooked side-by-side; nice to have company. Afterwards, we went back to the Wobbly Kea and stayed warm. I ordered some crushed apple cider, sweet with a lil’ kick. We heard from the bartender that Arthur’s Pass is about 34 people. We headed back to camp: Derrek in his tent, me in mine. Tomorrow Fox/Franz Josef? Who knows?

Saturday, April 10, 2010; Trouble Ahead

Woke up fucking cold; apologize for the language, but profanity is completely nessecary to describe how cold I was. I awoke early early early as I was freezing and after some intense shivering I finally went back to sleep. I reawoke and ate some breakfast: one square meal + water. Christoph, the friendly German, gave me a cup of warm tea. Derreck made porridge. After breakfast I packed up my “tent.” And climbed into Chritoph and Marie’s converted camper van. Oh, what a van! The back seats were sent to a junk shop and a hard mattress replaced it. If was a very comfy hitch though I felt a bit car sick, probably from not sleeping much plus the lack of a seat while driving through twisty mountains. They were paranoid of the police, so I covered myself with sleeping bags. I was so comfortable I fell asleep after helping Christoph and Marie with some English; they speak it so well. I awoke close to Greymouth and we took a picture together and I gave them my fb name. My camera wouldn’t open this morning and I was worried sick. In Greymouth, I went to Dick Smith’s, to another appliance store, and finally to Kodak, where I fixed my camera with the help of their tools. I was ecstatic! I celebrated with photography! Once my camera was fixed, I headed to a YHA to use their internet to check on courses and couch-surfing.

Afterwards, I re-dressed the wound and headed out in socks and jandals to New World, which was quite a walk away. I bought some oats (for breakfasts) and some more beans/fish and a few pieces of fresh fruit for the road. Then I started to walk out of town with a Franz Josef sign made out of boxes of bars I’d just purchased. Before I was even out of town, Peter, a kiwi who owns a carpet business that lets him travel the coast, picked me up. We talked about health psychology and stress. His advice, “always be content” -- don’t think about improving circumstances. He dropped me off in Hokitika, a small town full of pounamu (green stone). I walked to the beach, admired it, and then crossed the lengthy bridge out of town. It was late, around 3ish, which for hitching is late. I kept up my spirits by breaking into song and I progressed further south. Eventually Aaron and David, who I mistook for father-and-son, picked me up. Aaron had recently experienced a bad breakup and David was trying to cheer him up. They drove me south to Ross and told me I could stay there or head back with them. I decided to head back with them. We went to the pub at the hotel they were staying at and David bought a round of pints. David noticed Daniel, a German hitchhiker walking on the beach and invited him to join our silly gang. Together we watched the sun slip beneath the Tasman Sea. B-E-A-Utiful! Then we headed across the street to another pub for more drinks. Their hospitality was unbelievable…almost too unbelievable for comfort. David sensed my distrust and happily helped me try to locate a backpacker’s, but they were closed. During the walk we had a good chat and I realized that these people were honestly just friendly. They then started making fun of my “American suspicion.” He told me people always find him who are searching for something and he then tries to help them search. He’s 45+ (I’d say), homosexual, and a very decent guy with a sense of humor as evidenced by the fact that he wears the one ring to rule them all on his wedding finger. Aaron is a pool shark and showed Daniel and I up! Aaron’s 21 as well. Later we headed to another bar with more drinks! I’d really had plenty, as pints are large. We had more good conversation and many laughs; it was a really nice night. They assumed from the beginning that I’d stay with them in their hotel room and I eventually caved in and I did; plenty of room. Aaron and I chatted more to the background sound of bad covers of American pop. Eventually sleep came.

Reflection on the Trip 3
Hitching is my favorite way to travel. To make a good hitchhiker you have to look friendly, smile at the car, and continue walking to show that you’re serious about getting to where you’re going. Hitching is as much the destination for me as where the towns/sights I wanted to see. I could have seen so much more of New Zealand by renting a car and plowing from town to town, but hitching brought me closer to kiwi life. Everyday I hitched I met friendly strangers that readily chatted with me, especially after telling them I was a psychology major. That was only odd because they all reacted a little negatively and said something along the lines of, “Don’t expect me to tell you my life story” but eventually…they would! To hitch properly you have to have ample time as well as patience. Often when traffic was real slow (which occurred later in my trip) I found myself becoming stressed. Then I’d calm down and remember that I chose to do this and I just have to ‘trust in the road.’ For some reason repeating that in my head gave me hope to continue. It’s hard to explain the beauty of hitching fully, but you’ll just have to trust me that its worth your time!